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chicken" movement has swept across the United States in
recent years. Cities such as Boston, Massachusetts, and
Madison, Wisconsin, are known to have had chickens residing
illegally behind city fences.
But grassroots campaigns, often inspired by the expanding
movement to buy locally produced food, are leading
municipalities to allow limited numbers of hens within city
limits.
Cities such as Anne Arbor, Michigan; Ft. Collins,
Colorado; and South Portland, Maine have all voted in the
past year to allow residents to raise backyard poultry.
"It's a serious issue - it's no yolk," said Mayor Dave
Cieslewicz of Madison, Wisconsin, when his city reversed its
poultry ban in 2004. "Chickens are really bringing us
together as a community. For too long they've been cooped
up."
Raising backyard chickens is an extension of an urban
farming movement that has gained popularity nationwide.
Home-raised livestock or agriculture avoids the energy usage
and carbon emissions typically associated with transporting
food.
"Fresh is not what you buy at the grocery store. Fresh is
when you go into your backyard, put it in your bag, and eat
it," said Carol-Ann Sayle, co-owner of five-acre
(two-hectare) farm in Austin, Texas, located within walking
distance from the state capitol. "Everyone should have their
own henhouse in their own backyard."
"Buying local" also provides an alternative to factory
farms that pollute local ecosystems with significant amounts
of animal waste - which can at times exceed the waste from a
small U.S. city, a government report revealed last month. In
the United States alone, industrial livestock production
generates 500 million tons of manure every year. The waste
also emits potent greenhouse gases, especially methane,
which has 23 times the global warming potential of carbon
dioxide.
Meanwhile, advocates insist that birds raised on a small
scale are less likely to carry diseases than factory-farmed
poultry, although some public health officials are concerned
that backyard chickens could elevate avian flu risks.
Chicken: The ‘Buy Local' Mascot
After the trend first gained popularity in London,
England, with the invention of the "eglu" chicken house
about ten years ago, large numbers of city dwellers began to
raise chickens in the U.S. cities of Seattle and Portland,
said Jac Smit, president of the Urban Agriculture Network.
"It's no longer something kinky or interesting," Smit said.
"The ‘chicken underground' has really spread so widely and
has so much support."
Within the past five years, the trend has expanded to
cities where raising hens was already legal, including Los
Angeles, San Francisco, and Chicago. "Chicken has become the
symbol, a mascot even, of the local food movement," said
Owen Taylor of New York City, who knows of at least 30
community gardens that raise poultry, mostly for their eggs.
One Brooklyn home has raised upward of 50 hens. "We're the
biggest city in the country, so to have it here I think
blows people's minds."
K.T. LaBadie, a University of New Mexico graduate
student, was born into a family that grew its own fruits and
vegetables. So when she moved to Albuquerque and met a
friend who was raising his own chickens, poultry was a
logical progression in her own home. She began with two
hens, and now she has four.
"It felt like a good compliment to our backyard
gardening. We get compost from the chickens that goes back
into the vegetable beds," LaBadie said. "And there's really
nothing better than harvesting tomatoes and peppers from
your garden and being able to make an omelet with it using a
meal that was based in your backyard."
The spread of backyard chickens has promoted spin-off
businesses that cater to the local market. Some communities
are relying on mobile slaughterhouses to manage and
distribute the poultry meat, according to Smit.
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